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looklook 84M
4524 posts
1/15/2024 5:36 am

Last Read:
2/6/2024 4:58 pm

The legendary fabric that no one knows how to make

Dhaka Muslin, a fabric that was so fine that it could pass through a ring, was once one of the most valuable fabrics in the world. However, this fabric went extinct almost two centuries ago.

After six years of effort, researchers in Bangladesh succeeded in bringing the forgotten and enigmatic Dhaka Muslin fabric back to life. Some readers may ask what Dhaka Muslin is and why it went extinct.

Dhaka Muslin is a cotton fabric made using the plain weave technique, where a single weft thread alternates over and under a single warp thread.

This fabric was lost due to the systematic destruction of the Indian textile industry by the British in the late 18th century.
Historical accounts say that the British rulers did not hesitate to cut the thumbs of the Dhaka Muslin weavers to stop the production of this fabric.
The extent of the brutality was also described by William Bolts, an employee of the East India Company, in his book, “Considerations on India Affairs”, in 1772. These weavers lived in and around Dhaka City where I live now.

This article is a continuation of my blog titled “The Lost Fabric,” which was uploaded on this site’s blog page on 11/13/2016.
If readers want to know more about this legendary fabric and how it has been resurrected, they may search for the following article on the internet:

“The ancient fabric that no one knows how to make - BBC Future.”

https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20210316-the-legendary-fabric-that-no-one-knows-how-to-make

Meanwhile, readers may view the pictures of the resurrected and lost Dhaka Muslin fabrics below.



Photo Credits: Drik/Bengal Muslin

Photo # 6: Phuti Karpas cotton












looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/15/2024 6:02 am

Dhaka muslin was a favourite of Joséphine Bonaparte, the first wife of Napoleon, who owned several dresses inspired by the classical era. See Picture # 7 above.


looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/15/2024 7:48 am

    Quoting  :

Historical accounts say so, Koffla. Please go to Google and click the link mentioned above for details. They did it apparently to market their textile fabrics in the then India. Thanks for stopping by and for your post.


TxJW044 81M
251 posts
1/15/2024 8:11 am

Look This is wonderful informative blog.
I will read more about it.

When I started to read, I thought it was similar to silk, but after learning it is made from cotton it brings up something else. -------- I did not know cotton was grown in your area of the world.

In the early U.S.A. cotton was the main product of the southern states. It was produced on large plantations with slave labor and exported over the world.

Our civil war in the 1860s disrupted the plantations source of labor and set the cotton production and southern states economy back significantly. But for many years Cotton WAS King Of THE SOUTH.

I will call up cotton production in your area and learn more of the amazing weaving process of this unique material. Also---- What was the reasoning behind closing down production of the material?


PearlsWthMyJeans 68F
1708 posts
1/15/2024 9:46 am

Delicate and beautiful fabric!

A day without dance is .... just kidding. I have no idea!


looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/15/2024 9:48 am

    Quoting TxJW044:
    Look This is wonderful informative blog.
    I will read more about it.

    When I started to read, I thought it was similar to silk, but after learning it is made from cotton it brings up something else. -------- I did not know cotton was grown in your area of the world.

    In the early U.S.A. cotton was the main product of the southern states. It was produced on large plantations with slave labor and exported over the world.

    Our civil war in the 1860s disrupted the plantations source of labor and set the cotton production and southern states economy back significantly. But for many years Cotton WAS King Of THE SOUTH.

    I will call up cotton production in your area and learn more of the amazing weaving process of this unique material. Also---- What was the reasoning behind closing down production of the material?
Thanks for your comments on the blog page of mine. Dhaka Muslin fabric is made from the Phuti Karpas cotton Yarn (Gossypium arboreum var. neglecta, locally known as "Phuti karpas"). It was the variant used to make Dhaka Muslin in Bengal Province of undivided India, now Bangladesh. This particular variant used to grow in the south of Dhaka, along the banks of the mighty Meghna River. Please read the article referred to in the text of the blog. You will be surprised to learn that this particular cotton plant got lost after production of Dhaka Muslin was stopped brutally.
JW, I know that the USA is a cotton-growing country. It still is one of the countries where cotton is grown. Here in Bangladesh, we do not grow cotton like you do. We import it from Egypt and Pakistan.
Hope, by now you know why and what caused the closing down of Dhaka Muslin fabric production 200 years ago in Bangladesh. Take care. be safe.


looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/15/2024 10:02 am

Pearls, Dhaka Muslin Fabric is a delicate fabric. This fabric is no longer available in the cloth/fabric market. The weavers are now being trained again to produce Dhaka Muslin and the Phuti Karpas cotton plants are again being grown in the south of Dhaka city on the banks of the Meghna River. Have a pleasant time.


maudie1957 74F
1262 posts
1/15/2024 12:46 pm

Very interesting read , and lovely pictures also. That fabric looks really beautiful. Take care looklook and stay safe. .


Rocketship 80F
18567 posts
1/15/2024 12:54 pm

How interesting, Looklook!!

I'm so glad this beautiful fabric is being produced again.


TxJW044 81M
251 posts
1/15/2024 12:56 pm

Look I have read for hours about it now.

So much in this world is not fair.

As production comes back can it be sold at a profit after consideration of all the labor put into it?

In Texas there is only 1 place I know of that will purchase mohair used in clothing now It was a good money maker in the late 50s and early 60s. We had about 200 mohair goats. I was a great goat shearer. LOL

The mohair goat business is almost extinct now.

I wonder if mohair could be used in place of cotton to produce Muslin.


MrsJoe 76F
17384 posts
1/15/2024 1:14 pm

This is not only just a material, it a fabric of the culture of your area. I searched for more pictures of it, and see that it is very sheer. I hope a resurrection of it's production will make it more available today, but it will most likely be machine made instead of a craft.

Be a prism, spreading God's light and love, not a mirror reflecting the world's hatred.


looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/15/2024 9:00 pm

    Quoting maudie1957:
    Very interesting read , and lovely pictures also. That fabric looks really beautiful. Take care looklook and stay safe. .
Thank you so much, dear Maudie, for your inspiring post. Credits for snapping most of the photos uploaded go to Drik/Bengal Muslin. Take care. Stay cheerful always.


looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/15/2024 10:04 pm

    Quoting Rocketship:
    How interesting, Looklook!!

    I'm so glad this beautiful fabric is being produced again.

Yes, Dear friend, the fabric is being produced again. The thread count is now 400. I hope that they will succeed one day in future to make Muslin using 1200 count threads as done by their ancestors 200 years before. Always Keep well, dear friend, Rocket.


troll0037 45M
239 posts
1/15/2024 10:36 pm

Lovely cloth. Its history is so sad.


looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/15/2024 10:54 pm

    Quoting TxJW044:
    Look I have read for hours about it now.

    So much in this world is not fair.

    As production comes back can it be sold at a profit after consideration of all the labor put into it?

    In Texas there is only 1 place I know of that will purchase mohair used in clothing now It was a good money maker in the late 50s and early 60s. We had about 200 mohair goats. I was a great goat shearer. LOL

    The mohair goat business is almost extinct now.

    I wonder if mohair could be used in place of cotton to produce Muslin.
JW, the revival project is now backed by our government also. Our cotton board is actively helping the people involved in the project. There will be a time when the weavers in and around Dhaka and Tangail will produce the fabric and sale it at a profit. I am sure of it. As Dhaka Muslin is a product made from a special type of cotton, Mohair can not be used in place of cotton to produce Dhaka Muslin. I have posted a photo of Phuti Karpas cotton (#6) at above for readers to see how it looks like. Mohair Goat business may be extinct now but some day another JW will be there to revive the business. Be safe, dear friend.


looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/15/2024 11:32 pm

    Quoting MrsJoe:
    This is not only just a material, it a fabric of the culture of your area. I searched for more pictures of it, and see that it is very sheer. I hope a resurrection of it's production will make it more available today, but it will most likely be machine made instead of a craft.
You are right, Mrs. Joe. Dhaka Muslin fabric depicts the culture of our country. Ten years back, in 2013, the traditional art of weaving Jamdani muslin in our country was included in the list of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. As regards machine -made Dhaka Muslin, I would like to say that such product would not be called Dhaka Muslin. It will continue to be hand loom product in the coming days too. Thanks for stopping by the blog page. Your comments always inspire me to write and post.
Be safe. Keep well.


looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/15/2024 11:52 pm

    Quoting troll0037:
    Lovely cloth. Its history is so sad.
Hello troll, the cloth is soft and gentle too. When a country is ruled by a group of businessmen for making money, heritage and culture of that land get contaminated and sometimes go extinct. Thanks for stopping by and your comment. I appreciate it. Take care. Stay happy.


Archer62 83F
7086 posts
1/16/2024 12:46 am

SUCH A DELICATE FABRIC MUST BE VERY DIFFICULT TO PRODUCE. HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO TRAIN A PERSON TO PRODUCE IT? THE BRITS HAVE A LOT TO ANSWER FOR.


looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/16/2024 5:24 am

    Quoting Archer62:
    SUCH A DELICATE FABRIC MUST BE VERY DIFFICULT TO PRODUCE. HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO TRAIN A PERSON TO PRODUCE IT? THE BRITS HAVE A LOT TO ANSWER FOR.
Dear Arccher,
Handloom weaving is traditionally a family activity performed in a rural household set-up and is spread across several weaving villages in Bangladesh, Nepal and India. Though weaving is a male-concentrated occupation, women weavers are now available to do the job along with the male members of the family. However preparatory works are done by the female members of the family. Weaving is a family activity that engages the entire family in the process of making fabric. Every member of the family receives on-the-job training. Hope, you are doing fine. You may come across dresses made by Dhaka Muslin if you visit a French museum where textile products are on display. Take care. Be safe, my friend.


starwomyn 70F
8872 posts
1/26/2024 1:14 am

intriguing

Abracadabra


looklook 84M
3925 posts
1/26/2024 4:15 am

No doubt, Fascinating! Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are doing fine. Have a joyful and trouble-free 2024.